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How To Sew Inside Bias Binding

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Do you know how to sew inside bias binding? From neckline to keyhole button closure, there are many methods used to finish raw edges on the inside, and sewing inside bias bindingis one of the best methods to choose from. 

As a beginner, understanding the capabilities of your sewing machine will allow you to perform the best stitching to accomplish inner garment binding. No matter what brand of sewing machine you have, all you need is the right tools and proper step by step instructions to follow when sewing inside binding.

How do you sew inside bias binding? Follow the sewing pattern to cut a piece of bias tape from the fabric or use binding tape and measure the length of the binding needed. Face right sides together, pin the bias tape to the edge and sew along the pins. Press the seam allowance toward the bias tape, fold again and finish the inbinding with ” topstitch along the inner edge.

Whether you are looking to sew inside binding around armhole on the sleeveless top or neckline of a dress, let’s take a closer look at the meaning and purpose of using inside binding to give the desired finishing touches to the hem or seam of a garment. 

bias inbinding around neckline

What is inside bias binding?

The inside binding technique applies binding that is fully turned to the back of the fabric. In general, you will be using a single bias tape which is about 1½” wide and it is a bias strip of self or contrast fabric with just a single fold down the center.

This method comes in extremely handy and is also considered to be an indispensable need for those who want to give the right finishing touches to the seams of DIY clothing. It is done usually by pressing or rolling the seams. 

This is followed by the right kind of stitching. It could also be used on an edging or even on a trim using the sewing methods described below.

What is the difference between an inbinding and binding?

There are some obvious visible differences between binding and inbinding. Binding is basically used with the main purpose of cleaning and giving the right finishing touches to a garment part that is visible on the right side of the fabric. Inside binding does only show topstitching on the outer garment and the binding stays inside of the garment.

Both methods use bias binding, a long narrow piece of fabric that has been pre-folded in a couple of specific places. The main differences between those two are the sewing techniques and the type of binding tape being used.

A bias binding with a single fold is used on regular binding method where the binding appears on one side or on each side depending on where you sew. Review the pattern instructions in order to perform single or double fold inside binding for the garment as specified.

How to make single fold bias tape?

Most sewing pattern instruction indicates the estimate of how much bias binding you need for the pattern. It requires you to make single fold bias tape from scratch to finish the raw edges along the neckline and armhole.

  1. Fold the selvage over the cut edge of the fabric to create a 45 degree and cut along the fold.
  2. As pattern indicates, mark the total width of the binding and cut from the bias cut edge. 
  3. Stitch the end of the fabric strip into the bias tape maker. Use the angled edge to feed in easier.
  4. Set iron based on your fabric type and iron down the folded fabric as they come out of the maker.

If you don’t own a bias tape maker, after cutting out the fabric strips, use the fabric marker to mark the fold line and insert a large pin between the markings. The fabric strip will slide under the pin when starting to make the tape. 

Mark and fold on each side and press with your fingers. Pass the folded strip under the pin and start pressing with iron, work in small sections at a time and gently pull the folded strip while ironing.

How to sew inside bias binding by sewing machine?

There are some proven and time-tested ways by which bias inbinding can be done with the help of a machine, however you need the right things to get started. Important tools include a suitable walking foot and correct sewing needle that works on the specific fabric.

In order to sew inside bias binding with a sewing machine, all you need is basic sewing kit and pre-made single fold bias tape or medium-weight woven fabric to make your own. Furthermore, you need a small ruler to measure both ¼ inch and ½ inch increments.

  1. Measure the edge you are applying bias tape to.
  2. Use this measurement and add the width of the bias tape, by doing so it will be the total amount of material that you need.
  3. Place right sides together and align the two edges of bias tape together at a 90-degree angle, pin to secure.
  4. With marking tools, draw a straight line connecting the corners and straight stitch with a 1.5 stitch length along the marked line. Trim the excess and press open.
  5. Face right sides together and pin the bias tape to the edge of the garment.
  6. Sew along the pins and make sure not to pull at the garment or the tape while you sew. 
  7. Press the seam allowance toward the bias tape.
  8. Fold again so the bias tape is inside and pin to secure.
  9. Topstitch ⅛” along the inner edge of bias tape to finish the inbinding.

Expert tips: When sewing inside binding to the garment, make sure to use enough pins to sew accurately with a sewing machine. Take time and sew slowly while you are close the the pins and also have a pincushion next to you to remove the pins easily. 

How to sew inside binding on a curved edge?

Sewing inside binding on a curved edge especially around neckline and armhole can be tricky. The techniques and steps are same, but you will need to be more carefully and work slowly. 

  1. Use bias cut fabric strips and shape the tape with iron as close to the opening as possible.
  2. Line up the edge of the binding tape with the fabric edge on the right side and pin along the edge.
  3. Stitch on the folded line and sew slowly.
  4. Fold the stitch line over to the inside and sew ⅛” of topstitch along the curve line.

Expert Advice: Use your fingers and steam iron to mold the shape of the tape before attaching to the garment. By doing so, it will help the bias binding lay flat once finished and also avoid any puckering issues that may occur along the way.

steps on how to sew inside binding on clothes

Sewing Inbinding: Final Thoughts 

It would be better to get started with a template such as pattern as a guide to create the right curved edge. Ensure that the bindings are cut on the bias because the fabric has stretches compared to straight lines. 

Furthermore, use the right sized needle and the quality thread that matches the fabric you are working on. Not only does it give a cohesive look, but maintains the same thread tension along the seam so the fabric lays flat and doesn’t bunch.

Finishing any garment with inside bias binding look complicated and tough, but once you use these sewing tips and techniques you will master sewing straight or curved edge inbinding for all your DIY clothing.

That about wraps it up with inside bias binding. We have answers the how-to and why it is necessary, along with a few helpful tips to accomplish smooth inbinding on raw edges so that you are able to achieve a professional looking garment every time.

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